so i crawl out of bed soaked all my gear drenched /look up and see the waves maybe four feet from my face- shit- i run, in the deluge, away- scratch on uncle A's van door and crawl in soggy and cold to sleep in the passenger seat with a wet down jacket for warmth-
big swells have already come dragging away the sand and delivering logger remainders/ choker ?
the next night sleeping in my sun dried gear and tent again- i was awoken by the stars- pulling my hair -i crawled out of bed and stood staring at the swirling fuzzy stars and felt like i would die here, not tonight/but someday and that the stars were telling me that they knew and would wait for me- and tonight they'd suck some sloppy taste of my soul- as i stood in the sand with cold bare feet and salty eyelids-but not from crying
Dukes or someone was sleeping in that pile of crushed flaccid tent
bum still life with BBQ and water jug/keg cups and fuck
Arlington has been trying to get to the beach with us for years and this passed weekend we rolled out together in his '87 Vanagon- living the life- this man is a really good camper- lives large with fresh veggies, wraps and fruit-fresh coffee and tea- all geared up from years of living off the land in the mountains-feral
a vegetarian epicurean
Toby's first word
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when the sun breached the sky the clouds popped with white boarders - this is the time i'm usually in the sea- so i can see the light smack the wave tops and i can paddle around alone and talk to whales, smelt and peeliecans
the birds are all sick and dying- there is an awesome menacing algae bloom off shore- everything is dead-
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in the back ground you can see some huge tarp town some nutters have built, and built very well to have survived the previous nights gale force rain blast
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the brown foamy wave and high tide line
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this is where i'd drink tea with the Buddha if he existed and hung out at dirty south
some battlements constructed by tweakers to fight the leg growing whales and their merman aquanauts
i had wanted to start a surf magazine with no photographs of surfers- just waves and clouds and the life- called SAD !
when the sun breached the sky the clouds popped with white boarders - this is the time i'm usually in the sea- so i can see the light smack the wave tops and i can paddle around alone and talk to whales, smelt and peeliecans
in the back ground you can see some huge tarp town some nutters have built, and built very well to have survived the previous nights gale force rain blast
the brown foamy wave and high tide line
this is where i'd drink tea with the Buddha if he existed and hung out at dirty south
how high the tide reaches and wave plums
*croaker is a type of fish on the east coast and the sickness i get after surfing there
I wish I were there. One day my ashes will be.
ReplyDeleteTHOSE PICTURES WERE BEAUTIFUL.i WOULD LIKE TO DRINK TEA WITH THE BUDDHA AT THAT SPOT TOO.VERY CALMING AND BEAUTIFUL.PUCCI.
ReplyDelete